Tuesday Night, the Importance of Running

So I’ve read the self-important bloggers who wax poetic about the powers of running. I’ve heard of, and seen, people who primarily identify as “runners”. For me, this always seemed a trifle silly. 

I mean, it takes no great skill. No equipment. No knowledge is required, other than the innate understanding of how to run, which is something mere children can do without any formal training. And, of course, these runners were making no special claims about being good at running. They were just saying “sometimes, I run around for fun”.
Whoop de-freakin’-do.
I was diagnosed with ADHD as a college student, when all of a sudden I didn’t have the structure (or the guidance) that comes from an upper-middle class white upbringing which focused on “enriching experiences” and “competitive college admissions” and “do a good turn daily” and “it’s time to do your homework!”.
At college, I was a mess, at best. I was a disorganized wreck seeing myself truly for the first time, and realizing that I didn’t know where the heck my next class was, what I did with that assignment, who I was supposed to meet, and look! they have ice-cream. All at once.
But here’s the thing that you’ve been waiting for: I was wrong. Running is excellent. But I don’t give two bananas about my lungs (which I assume are doing good) or my heart (pumping) or my legs (toned, at least more so than when I was a chubby wreck of a college kid), it’s all about the brain.
Yes, running is good for my brain.
One of the more unpleasant side effects of the ADHD meds, in addition to feeling emotionally “flat” for most of the day is the sudden “crash” at around 5pm every day. I feel cranky, irritable for no reason, and down. I get a slight headache, I can’t think clearly, I become clumsy, and everything anyone says is a dig at me.
What is happening is my brain is literally stumbling, like a car, which isn’t getting the fuel it needs to feel good, like dopamine. Or serotonin. Or something. Hell I dunno, that conversation with the doctor was months ago.
Running, it seems, cranks up the ‘ol brain and produces endorphins. Or neurotransmitters. Listen, I’m a bit fuzzy on the science behind it all, but you read enough articles on the web to know what I’m talking about right? Right.
The point is, I’m pretty freaking close to writing an annoying article about how awesome it is to be a runner, and how much I identify with running culture, and blah blah blah.
Running has become my daily escape, my way to hit the reset button, my way to make the brain get amped up and produce the chemicals I need to feel good. It gives me time to think, time to dig deep, and time to prioritize things. It makes me feel, it makes me listen, and most of all, it makes me less cranky.
So although it’s awesome, you’ll never see me write some super annoying, preachy blog post that’s all “running changed my life!” or “runners for life” or “running makes you feel great” some other such crap.
Never.
Ever.

A Change in Direction

So, a bit over 2 years ago, I hiked half of the Appalachian trail. It was over 1,000 miles in about 3 months, and it was a blast.

Despite my initial intentions to do the whole blasted thing in panic-like rush before graduate school started in the fall of 2013, alas, I am only human.  I had to settle for half. I walked from Georgia to West Virginia, and then headed home to pick up again the day-to-day routines of life as a student.

In the end, though, I was a much happier camper, once I began to focus on the experience  rather than the goal. Because, wasn’t the goal all along to have an wicked awesome and freeing experience? To prove to myself that I could do something difficult and independent? To get really, really stinky?

It was awesome.

In my time since, I’ve found that taking time to collect one’s thoughts is a rarity in the “real world”. In the woods, all you have is time and your thoughts for entertainment.

In that vein, I want to make this blog pretty much a place where I can just write. Mainly for myself. To help me collect my thoughts. And for fun.

My mother was an English major in college, and imparted a love of words and of books at an early age to my brother and I. I would take extra elective English classes in high school and in college because, hey, its fun to read and write essays! Some of my friends thought I was nuts when I decided to take 2 extra English electives in high school “for fun”.

I’ve found that I’ve missed the creative outlet that reading and writing has given me, and that as an ADULT now, I have to make time for the things that I like to do. Sometimes, that is a really, really hard thing to do.

So, this blog is for me now. Not for you. Feel free to unsubscribe, you Michael Hikes the Appalachian Trail followers! You won’t hurt my feelings.

But if you want to continue getting self-reflective crap like this in your inbox from me, feel free to read it! I promise at least sometimes it will be interesting. I’ll be updating about my life, stuff I read, things I am doing, my musing on current events, and whatever the hell else I feel like writing about.

Again, this is for me. So sometimes, it will be weird. Sometimes, it will be entirely a conversation that I had in my head. Sometimes it will be random fiction that I write. Sometimes daydreams.

But, dear readers, fear not! For this is THE INTERNET! You can do whatever you like.

 

 

 

 

 

Greetings From Mile 750!

Hey all–

I’m in scenic Buchanan, VA, (pop. 1,171)  a day’s hike north of Daleville, VA, (pop. 2,557), and it’s freaking gorgeous here.

The last 3 days I had the huge honor and privilege of backpacking with my Dad and my Bro, which was a great time. We laughed, told stories, made fire, ate food, Dad and Phil napped outside of a Kroger while I re-supplied a week’s worth of food, and everyone marveled at the beautiful views we passed. We hiked up McAfee Knob, which has easily the most amazing views of the trip so far, and we saw Tinker Cliffs, which was equally amazing.

The weather, after being quite rainy for the past few weeks, has been excellent as of late.

And about a week ago I got to meet up with Mom for dinner in Bland, VA, which lived up to it’s name. There are only 3 restaurants in Bland, none of which are separate from a gas station. We drove to some other town for dinner. It was excellent to get something not cooked on a camping stove!

I have had so many adventures since the last time I posted, it’s hard to describe them all: Wild ponies in Grayson Highlands State Park, beer at Trent’s Grocery, organic food and yoga and meditation and chasing chickens at Wood’s Hole Hostel, great conversations with people in the woods who go by the name “Soul Flute”, my first time hitch-hiking, staying in a guy’s front yard who calls himself “The Captain” and gives free soda to hikers, seeing a geological structure called “God’s Thumbprint” from up on the ridge-line, great times with numerous hiker friends, and so much more. There is almost too much adventure to put into words.

So, I’m going to try pictures.

Meet Virginia

I made it to Virginia!

I’m in Damascus, and I spent last night in a hiker hostel for 6 bucks. Hot shower, laundry, and epic amounts of food: these things are town necessities for hikers. Karaoke last night was just icing on the cake. My song of choice, “500 miles” by the Proclaimers went over real well amongst the crowd of hikers.

I’m at mile 466, and my ankles and feet and whatnot feel great. Stretching and ibuprofen have gone a long way towards managing my ankle swelling and soreness. I’ve still had zero blisters on my feet, which is pretty amazing out here. Everyone seems to have massive blisters that they have to deal with, and some folks have to duct tape their feet together every morning. I’m one of the lucky ones who for whatever reason has never had a single issue with my feet. (Also, nobody worry about Happy Feet. He is fine, hiking, and still has both his feet. They are healing, and look much better!)

A bit of bad news: I’m not going to finish the trail this year. Doing it in 100 days was an ambitious and worthy goal, but unfortunately I was a bit optimistic about how much time I would have before work and grad school start.

I only have less than 3 months. I started May 8th, and I found out I have to be back for training for work at UNC on August 5th. It’s darn near impossible to finish in that time-frame. 100 days would have been really stretching it, and its unfathomable for me to do it any faster than that.

So upon realizing this, I’ve decided that heck, I’m gonna backpack every available day I have this summer and make it as far as I get. I’m shooting for 1500 miles, which would put me in NY. It’s a real bummer I won’t be able to finish this year, but I will be able to return later and finish the whole thing.

Without the crazy pressure of finishing with such a hard deadline, I’m free to focus more on the experience rather than on cranking out a 22 mile-per-day average. I’ve been able to slow down, get to hang out with some of my fellow hikers, enjoy some of the little quirks of the trail, go into the little trail towns and get milkshakes, hike a bit off the trail to see the pretty sights, and just generally enjoy myself a little more. I’ve been hiking pretty fast with a pretty strict schedule, which is fun for the physical challenge of it, but wears you down after a while. When you slow down a bit, you are free to more fully experience the conversations you have with other hikers, the beautiful views, and you can do things like take an hour to have lunch by yourself on the top of a mountain and write in your journal.

Also, “Trail Magic” seems to happen more often when you aren’t in a rush to be somewhere. “Trail Magic” is when someone gives unsolicited food or tasty treats or beer or fruit to thru-hikers in the middle of the woods. It’s happened a few times to me so far, and every time feels like a life-changing experience. There is something quite powerful about having nothing, being dirty, tired, and wet, and then being given a surprise orange. After not having any fruit for a week, it’s the best orange you’ve ever tasted, and it brings happy tears to your eyes.

Which, of course, is pretty easy to do to me. If you want to see me cry happy tears, just put on Rudy. It works. Every. Time.

One day, we ran into a gigantic bearded fellow who thru-hiked in 1980 and cooked everyone ham and cobbler on an open fire for lunch. It was awesome. We took 3 hours in the middle of the day to talk, share tasty food, and talk about life, philosophy, and the finer points of hiking. It was wonderful, and it was the kind of thing that I would have never done if I was just pressing onward all day, everyday. He was an incredibly kind man, who gave us lots of advice, and was so happy to share his food with us. He refused money, and he made us all promise to do something kind and selfless for someone else, and said that would be repayment enough.

Its funny how being in the woods with pretty much nothing makes people even more generous. There are no status symbols in the woods, money means pretty much nothing because you can’t buy anything when you are 50 miles from town, and kindness and trust become more valuable than success or competition. Hikers are an odd breed, but some of the kindest and most thoughtful people you could ask to meet. Also, they smell bad.

At first I was very hesitant to let go of my lofty goal of completing the AT this summer, but now I’m quite happy now to no longer consider myself a thru-hiker. Now, in the vernacular of the trail, I am known as a LASH-er (Long A** Section Hiker). This summer I will backpack for 3 months, get as far as I get, and have lots of stories to tell after it’s over. And you can bet your boots I will be back to try and finish the AT

NUMBERS OF STUFF THAT HAPPENED SINCE MAY 8th

Bears I’ve seen: 5 (3 adult, 2 cubs)

Showers: 7

Cans of Yoo-hoo I’ve had: 8

Number of times I lost my wallet in the woods, with my debit card, credit card, ID, insurance card, and $40 in cash in it: 1

Number of times a good Samaritan drove an hour to return my wallet, cash and all, 2 days later: 1

When I mention I’m from Chapel Hill, the number of times the conversation goes immediately to college basketball: 10

Number of steps it takes to finish the AT:  5 million

Number of times I have heard that stat: 9 million

Number of times I have pooped in the woods: too many to count. Toilets are a nice thing. I miss them.

Number of people named “Hillbilly” I’m actively avoiding: 1

That’s all for now! More updates as I hike Virginia!

Goodness, Gracious, Great Smokey Mountains!

Before launching into the many adventures I have had since the responsible adult left, (my younger brother), I need to explain a bit about Trail Names.

Now, you may say, “But Michael, what’s in a name? A rose by any other name would smell as sweet!” But my response would surely be, “Yes, but thru-hikers smell nothing like roses. They stink.”

Trail Names:

On the Appalachian Trail people are given nicknames that they use while backpacking, which gives the whole experience even more separation from the “real world”. While in the woods, you are a different person.

My trail name, which I received on my first time away from home for a week at Boy Scout Camp with Troop 449, is “Nigel”. I get some weird looks when I tell people my trail name is “Nigel”, because it is actually a real name. Lots of people go by things like “Happy Feet” (who had massive open, oozing blisters), “Micky and Minnie” (a young, excitable, happy couple), “Axle” (who bursts into Guns and Roses songs periodically) and “Swayze” (he looks a bit like Patrick Swayze. No, I’m not giving you his number).

I got “Nigel” basically because someone misheard me say my name was Michael. And it stuck. Partly because I hated it so much that first week, that of course everyone would call me “Nigel” to get on my nerves. I was 11 or 12, and away from home for the first time, so getting on my nerves had the added benefit of making me burst into tears.  And also, there are dozens of “Michaels” running around at Boy Scout camp. Calling me “Nigel” helped keep all the “Michaels” sorted out.

The nickname stuck for 8 years, and made the transition to college, and now I introduce myself as “Nigel” to other thru-hikers. Funny how things happen.

Things that happened since last time I updated the blog:

I left the Nantahala Outdoor Center fully stocked with food and supplies, and went 7 miles to the most gorgeous campsite I have stayed at yet. The shelter was full, so we hiked up to Cheoah Bald and made camp there. They view was spectacular  the weather was excellent, and the company was merry.

Cheoah Bald

That’s Mickey at Cheoah Bald.

From there we did a 19.5 mile day to get into Fontana Dam, a touristy resort village thingy, to celebrate Mickey’s 24th birthday with a good meal and beer. It was an incredible success!

After that I left Mickey, Minnie and Swayze to tackle the Great Smokey Mountains. I did 12 Miles the First day leaving Fontana, and the put together a string of back-to-back-to-back 20 mile days to finish the Smokies and make it to a short-term re-supply place at Standing Bear Hostel. Some folks hitched rides into Gatlinburg, TN, but I had my sights set on Hot Spring to do a full re-supply and spend some time with the lovely lady friend of mine.

In the Great Smokey Mountains I saw: one frightened black bear, one confused wild turkey, a pretty chilled out copperhead snake.

I also got to see beautiful sights from the highest point on the Appalachian Trail, Clingman’s Dome.

There is a ramp up to the Tower at Clingman's Dome. Yes, those are clouds. I'm higher than them.

There is a ramp up to the Tower at Clingman’s Dome. Yes, those are clouds. I’m higher than them.

After Clingman’s Dome there were lots of pretty sights, as I spent most of that day hiking along ridges with views on both sides. It was gorgeous.

I stayed at the Davenport Gap Shelter towards the end of the Smokey Mountains, which had a cage on it to keep the bears out. That was scary. But there were no bears that night.

The only bear I saw I must have scared senseless. I was hiking, lost in thought, and I said one word aloud to myself. From 50 yards away a bear must have suddenly thought “CRAP! HUMAN!” because I heard the sounds of a large animal crashing through the woods at a high speed directly away from me. As I looked up, I could only see a big black bear booty hauling butt away from me.

Two days after the end of the Smokies I made it into Hot Springs, where I was meeting my girlfriend, Laura, and taking a zero day (hiking no miles) to recover.

Now I’m fully re-stocked on food, fuel, and gear, and I’m fully rested and ready to go. This was a necessary zero day, as I my shins and ankles had been swollen for days from the repeated beatings they take every day. Now the swelling has go down, and I’m itching to get back on the trail. I’m at mile 290, and today Laura will drop me off and I will continue onwards, hopefully stopping to do a quick re-supply in Roan Mountain, TN a few days from now.

I feel great, and ready for even more challenges. At very least, I know I am in better shape than Happy Feet.

Happy Feet's Feet aren't so Happy.

Happy Feet’s Feet aren’t so Happy.

NORTHWARD, HO!

The Handsome Devils Went Down to Georgia

Last night the bro and I rolled into the Nantahala Outdoor Center on the Appalachian Trail near Bryson City, NC. Showers! Wifi! Coffee! Porcelain Toilets!  Other humans! It’s overwhelming.

The bro parked his car here, and this is the end of the Trail for him this summer. He’s got things to do. I will be pressing on to Maine!

But since his car was here, we payed 18 bucks for the privilege of a shower and a bunk bed in a room with a nice guy named Doug.

Yup, this is luxurious living compared to the previous eight days.

We started at Amicalola Falls State Park in Georgia, and did 8.8 miles of hiking on the approach trail to get to the start of the AT. Yes, you read that right. We had to hike to get to the start of the hike.

At the end of the 8.8 mile trek (straight up) is Springer Mt., the official start of the AT. We had lunch there, and then hiked 8 miles into Hawk Mountain  Shelter, where we spent the night, and met some of the nicest people and bravest mice I have ever come across. The mice were very interested in making lots of noise crawling through our packs and crawling on our sleeping bags. It was not a great night for sleeping.

The next day we did 16.2 miles to stay at a campsite at Lance Creek. We originally were planning on staying in a shelter further along the trail, but due to heavy bear activity in the area, you can’t stay there without a bear-proof canister, which we don’t have.

We woke up the next morning and did a 19 mile day over Blood Mountain, where we had lunch and saw the views, before hiking in the  rain to make it to Low Gap Shelter. We were celebrities at Low Gap Shelter among some other thru-hikers who thought it was bad ass that we did 19 miles over Blood Mountain. They were noobs.

The next day was a real gut-buster. 23 miles over three mountain peaks: Blue Mountain, Rocky Mountain, and Trey Mountain. We started hiking at 8am and didn’t roll into where we would be sleeping, at Deep Gap, until 7:30pm. The were breaks for lunch and snacks and dinner and whatnot, but it was a long haul. Rainy and windy and chilly that night.

That was the longest day of hiking so far. We are averaging around 18 miles a day, which is good for this terrain and at the start of the trail. As we have been hiking my feet have  hardened, my legs have strengthened, and I’ve been getting into better shape. People talk about  getting your “trail legs”, and once you do that, it’s easy to get into a groove and really rock out the milage. This first week has gone a long ways towards getting me in the groove.

Most nights have been chilly, but bearable. 30s and 40s at night, and up in the 70s during the day. Really, we couldn’t ask for better weather so far. Most days have been sunny and clear. It’s only rained on us about 3 times, which is great.

We crossed the boarder from GA to NC on day five, and were SO happy to be back on our home turf.

We re-supplied in Georgia on day five as well, and took a shuttle ride into a grocery store to buy more food. It was then that I realized that I was really stinky. But would be 3 more days until we reached the Nantahala Outdoor Center, and a shower.

Which brings us up to the present. I will be hiking on today to the next shelter, and the bro will drive back home to Chapel Hill. He has pictures on a disposal camera, which we will get uploaded as soon we can. From here on, I’ll be taking the occasional pic and posting it from my phone.

Hike so far at a glance:

8 days

146.1 miles

1 bear sighting

5 older women fawning over the Goodling boys in a grocery store in Georgia

3 amazing views from fire-towers

1 state completed (Georgia)

1 shower

0 Blisters for Michael. (6 for Phillip)

Hiking onward!